Smirnov Outing Club
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Alex Mumzhiu: Around South America
13 October 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: Dear friends, I planned to go on my next trip, to South America on Oct 5 2002. I had an airline reservation for Quito, Ecuador. I planned to go around the entire S. American continent in four months... full message
27 October 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: My Dear readers, Thank you very much for your support. I never heard so many good words said about me. It was like attending my own funeral. However, as a Mark Twain said, "rumors of my death are greatly exaggerated... full message
4 November 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: These guys who travel with airport-hotel transfer included, missing this part entirely. For me this part is especially attractive because my favorite sport is not football or baseball, my favorite sport is orienteering. I used to participated in orienteering competitions a lot. In America it is known as survivors competition... full message
7 November 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: Quito became intolerable. Ash was everywhere. In addition to ash falling from the sky, passing cars raised such a thick cloud of ash that you cannot see the opposite side of the street. This ash is not harmless like Sahara sand. My equadorian friend Marko said that ash is killing his guinea pigs. He keeps guinea pigs not for medical experiments but for food. Many people advised me to try roasted guinea pigs called gye, but I was afraid to insult my young readers. I had a few of them... full message
9 November 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: I realized that my plan to circle entire continent is not realistic. Below is the map of my trip as a see it now. My return ticket from Rio De Janeiro is on Jan 20 2003... full message
18 November 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: Of course I have seen National Geographic movies about Galapagos and read about it, but Galapagos never was on the list of places which I would like to visit. It was too remote, too difficult and too expensive. If it was not for volcanic eruption near Quito and ash fallout, I probably would not have gone there... full message
19 November 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: From Galapagos I flew back to Guaquil. Then, I took an 8 hours bus ride to Banos, a paradise on Earth. This small cosy town is located near the equator but at an altitude of 1800 meters, so the climate here is mild and pleasant... full message
21 November 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: I should give the title of the best backpacker's paradise to Banos. It is better than two other contenders - Pokhara and Youngshou (I mentioned them in previous TN). It is cleaner, it is not Asia. And people are culturally closer, than Chinese or Nepalese. And it is cheaper... full message
29 November 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: Traffic on Pan-Americana Highway after huge explosion, I wrote before, was restored and I decided not to go through the head hunters (head shrinkers) territory. They probably have never seen a folding bicyclist and may have a temptation to shrink my head as a souvenir. Instead I started long bus ride to Lima, Peru... full message
3 December 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: I am in the middle of the famous gringo trail, Pisca-Nasca-Cusco. Pisco is the starting point for visiting Ballerians islands. These islands remind me of Swiss cheese. My wife, who is an architect, would love this design, a lot of skylights... full message
10 December 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: The beauty of Machu Pichu comes from its location. It is again as always location, location and location. Machu Picchu is located on a wide saddle between two mountains. The river valley is about 700 meters below... full message
18 December 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: From Michu Picchu I took a long bus ride to Arequipa to see the deepest canyon and biggest condor that flies there. The two days bus tour to the canyon ($15) goes across a 4,800m pass before descending to the canyon, with vertical drops of 1,500m... full message
25 December 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: I am in the Amazon jungle town Rurrenabaque. It is a pretty nice jungle town. It reminds me in some sense the village of Listvianka on the shores of Baikal lake, which has asphalt roads and mixed drinks in every bar, but otherwise is a typical Siberian village.... full message
31 December 2002 
Alex Mumzhiu: Something wrong in this picture!!! Cactuses do not grow on the shore of white polar sea. Right, it is not ice it is salt. Saler de Uyuni is huge 100x100 km salt field, 1-3 meter deep. Place with cactuses is the island in the middle of this salt field called ironically the Pescador Island... full message
7 January 2003 
Alex Mumzhiu: From Uyuni I went to Potossi, then Sucre and now I am in Santa Cruz, Bolivia. In half an hour I am leaving Santa Crus by train and will be in Brazil tomorrow. I hope to take one more jungle tour to Pantanal from Currumba, Brazil... full message
18 January 2003 
Alex Mumzhiu: My dear readers I am in Rio De Janeiro, the final point of my trip. My return ticket is on Jan 20 2003. As I wrote before, from Santa Cruz, Bolivia I took 24 hours train to the border of Brazil and went into another jungle tour in Southern Pantanal, Brazil. It was disappointing, Bolivian tour was much better and also cheaper... full message